Strictly there should be steam trains, puffing and sighing in the background, the slam of doors on departure, a mournful whistle.  But these days it’s the sleek Eurostar, less romantic but full of the promise of all things French, which slides in and out.

What hasn’t changed though – and against all the odds – is the fabulous St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, its graceful lines, grand stairs, arched doorways and tiled floors still promising a brush with romance.  It’s a survivor, this ornate old building.  When I first knew it in the 1970s, it housed British Rail office staff and was threatened with demolition. But when it opened in 1873, The Midland Grand Hotel was the epitome of architectural splendour and modernity, offering such novelties as a Ladies Smoking Room and lifts.

Well, it survived the Blitz, the depression and the city planners and is once again a railway hotel, one of the Renaissance group, offering all the facilities you require from five-star – luxury suites, spa and pool, conference rooms and a range of bars and restaurants.  Among them is The Gilbert Scott, named for the hotel’s architect, and one of the marvellous Marcus Wareing’s stable.

My lunch guest Terry, met me in the bar adjacent to the restaurant, down a stone staircase which curves from the hotel’s vast lobby.  So much of the hotel’s original splendour has been preserved, or restored, in the renovation.  The bar boasts grey marble columns topped with gold leaves and the restaurant itself is an elegant pale yellow lozenge of a room, with polished columns, large panel paintings and an impossibly high and intricately embossed ceiling.  A classical setting for modern British cuisine.

The Restaurant Manager, Christophe, led us to our table and left us in the charge of Marco. I love sommeliers and the stories they tell.  I asked for a glass of Riesling, so Marco led us immediately to a vineyard on the Mosel, where the vines, trained into a heart-shape and interplanted with herbs,  grow on such steeply sloping hills, they seem to be tumbling down to the river.  He casually added that he had bought up their entire stock of the 2012 Riesling (thus subtly letting us know that no one else in London is drinking it).  The Riesling when I sip it tastes as golden as its colour; it’s mellow and thick and the flavour blooms instantly on my tongue.

The menu was comfortingly seasonal, full of the grassy spring flavours of asparagus, Jersey Royals and wild garlic.  At this time of year the latter carpets the woodlands around where I live and bruises the air with an almost feral scent as the Offspring and I tramp big-booted through it.  I’ve torn up handfuls and chucked them in with the roasties and I once attempted wild garlic pesto.  But wild garlic soup – now that’s a revelation –  deep, deep green in a black bowl, like a mysterious woodland pond, robust and creamy and deeply satisfying, a little crostini bridge of goats curd resting across one side.

The pigeon terrine was a hearty pink slab, marbled with different colours and polka-dotted with pink and green peppercorns – “very flavoursome” said Terry.  Her best end of lamb was tender and melt in the mouth while my pollock, decorated with little pink curls of shrimp, was perfectly cooked, falling into thick translucent flakes.  We ate soft bread thick with caraway seed, salty-sweet Jersey Royals with seaweed butter, shiny green beans and finished with guava sorbet, two pink globes, creamy rather than icy and so full of fruit the flavour was immediate and unmistakable.

Throughout it all Christophe kept a benign eye on us, strolling softly over to check we had everything we needed.  “He’s very attentive to us, isn’t he?”  I whispered to Terry.  “He is to everyone”, she replied.  “I’ve been watching him.  He spends the same amount of time at each table, doesn’t intrude, just nicely checks that everything’s OK.  I think it’s so important, especially when you’re booking for C-board execs – and I book a lot – to know that they’re going to be looked after.  It’s the same with the sommelier.  He spends just the right amount of time describing the wine to the customers, before moving on.  Perfect.”

So top marks to the staff.  And to the lovely cheerful young head chef.  We met him when Christophe took us downstairs to the Chef’s Table set at one end of the kitchen, allowing the diners a long view of the gleaming stations and the chefs at work.  It seats 10 comfortably and 12 “cosily” as Christophe said.

There is also a private dining room, a long, narrow room with windows to the street and an old, rather handsome, fireplace – the old Station Master’s office apparently, which is a charming thought.  The PDR seats 18 or a “cosy” 20.

Ushered gently to the door by the ever-charming Christophe, we made our way back up the huge glass-roofed hotel lobby, where the taxis used to drive right in to deposit their fares.  There’s an echo – of travellers and tourists, hurrying footsteps and baggage.  It may only be dear old St Pancras, but in terms of setting, it’s pretty hard to beat.

Love, Minty

The Gilbert Scott at St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, Euston Road, London NW1 2AR

To book, please call:  020 7278 3888 or email reservations@thegilbertscott.com

The Gilbert Scott menus showcase the very best in British seasonal produce. Guests can choose between the A La Carte, the 3-course Set Menu or the 3-course Sunday Roast. Group and Private Dining menus are also available and can be tailored to guests’ preferences.

Chef’s Table  An immersive, memorable dining experience, surrounded by activity, produce and wine in the restaurant’s kitchen. The focused intensity of the kitchen creates a fantastic atmosphere, as dishes are created and presented in front of your party. The crescent table seats up to 10, with the party facing the kitchen.

A 5 or 7-course lunch menu and 7-course dinner menu are available.

Private Dining Room  The Gilbert Scott’s private dining room is an elegant space with original features and an 18ft high ceiling, seating up to 18 guests. A range of seasonal menus are available, from a 3-course set menu, to a 5-course taste menu. Our team can also create a bespoke menu tailored to your preferences.

Exclusive hire

Hire one of London’s most spectacular dining rooms for exclusive use. The team can create bespoke packages, from food and drink, to an appearance from Marcus Wareing, floristry, AV or an arrival drinks reception. Seats up to 130.

The head sommelier can create wine pairings for any meal, either working to a budget or through a recommended selection.